Black by design.
Black by design.
Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium®
and the evolution of black: from
functionality to design purity.
The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium® reimagines one of IWC’s most iconic models, the Portugieser, in an all-black execution that brings the classic into a contemporary context. Its 41 mm Ceratanium® case, paired with a black dial, hands, and appliques, rests on a black rubber strap with a Ceratanium® pin buckle for a lighter, tougher, cleaner feel. By removing every trace of color, the design is reduced to its pure form, allowing the chronograph’s sculptural character to come fully into focus. Because less really is more.
Limited to 1,500 pieces, the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium® reframes a familiar icon - and sets the stage to explore why black has mattered so much to IWC over the decades.
Balance between fashion and function.
Black watches first appeared at IWC in the 1880s, with pocket watches for military use, and particularly women’s models, all crafted from black oxidized steel. The black finish was achieved through a hot chemical treatment, transforming the steel into a deep, refined black while offering some protection against rust. Visually striking and practical for daily wear, these watches still struggled in damp conditions – but they laid the groundwork for more ambitious designs.
Their appeal lays in the balance between fashion and function: the dark cases created a sharp contrast with white enamel dials and blued or gold hands, enhancing legibility while delivering a sleek, modern alternative to polished gold or silver. At a time of rapid industrial progress, the understated steel aesthetic carried a certain industrial chic, signaling precision, strength, and practicality – qualities that resonated with professionals and a growing middle class seeking durability, discretion, and contemporary style without ostentation.
Form. Function. Porsche.
Fast forward to the 1970s, when IWC started exploring coatings and surface treatments in earnest. Anodizing, black-matte-hard chrome plating, and other methods were tested to create durable black cases. Around the same time, Ferdinand A. Porsche introduced his vision of the all-black watch: legible, functional, elegant, and guided by the principle “form follows function”. His 1973 chronograph impressed the watch world, but the coating proved fragile. Seeking a partner to realize his vision, Porsche turned to IWC, sparking a collaboration from 1978 to 1995 that set new standards in black watchmaking.
Engineering black titanium.
IWC was already pushing boundaries – manufacturing anodized aluminum compass watches, titanium chronographs, and even black anodized aluminum models. But blackening titanium was another beast. By 1983, IWC had developed its TiCON hardening process: titanium’s surface was chemically toughened and blackened to a metallic gray-black, creating a layer both visually refined and exceptionally durable. The manufacture also introduced a plasma-assisted ceramic coating, firing titanium with metal oxides at 20,000° C – producing a layer of unparalleled hardness and corrosion resistance.
